Mulberry Stitch and Ink Training Pieces.
When I first started my apprenticeship at Mulberry, we started off with stitch training. This ran over a course of five weeks, as this was a skill set that we initially took to the production lines.
This was a sewing task that the training team had set up for me when I attended my interview. I had a go at stitching along the edges of these leather cut outs which were small parts of the bags I would learn more about later on in the apprenticeship. This was my first attempt at working on an industrial sewing machine. As you can see, this was all very new to me. One element that took me a while to get used to was the knee lift. Because I was to used to working with college sewing machines, I kept relaxing my leg and accidently raised the knee lift while stitching. You can really see this in the last image.
Stitch Training
First of all, the training team sat down with us and demonstrated exactly how the machine works. We were taught how to correctly turn it on and off, how to thread the machine and the bobbin up, and how to replace needles. Throughout our stitch training we were quizzed on the health and safety with the machinery and how to correctly operate it.
We started off by stitching onto scrap pieces of leather. The training team marked out different shapes for us to use as a guide. This was to help us get used to the handling of the machine and gradually improve our accuracy when stitching free hand.
One of the first things I picked up from doing these tasks was estimating how many stitches I had to do without over running the end. For example with the zig-zag lines, we had to make sure we met every point perfectly. This gave us the opportunity to learn how to slightly manipulate the stitching in the leather. Whether that be pushing or pulling to slightly tweak the stitch length, or simply hand wheeling it to make it go exactly where you want it to.
As you can see in some of these photos, we also learnt how to over stitch and make sure the the needles land in the same stitch holes. This was a very important skill to learn as this is a stitching technique used in all the items we create in production. Mulberry are particularly hot on this as they hold a good reputation for quality.
Over the five week period, we worked our way through a training book which was full of specifications to follow. We did multiple versions of these training pieces, each one better than the last. Then, once the training team were happy with the quality of each task, we could move onto the next one. This was an introduction of what to expect when entering a role on the production line, as the specs were made to read similarly to the different roles.
The photo on the left was a technique called 'bartac'. This was quite a challenging skill to learn as this is mainly performed on bag straps. This is usually to help reinforce the stitching around the buckle as it is used a lot and can get worn down very easily. I had to start in the middle, stitch down three times and go off the end. I then had to go back up and down in the same hole twice, carry on back stitching to the other end and do that same that side, and meet back in the middle. The most challenging part of this stitch is that I had to make sure my lines were straight and that I landed back in the same stitch holes.
- With that being said, I managed to pick it up really quickly and quite enjoyed doing this in the production line.
This technique was called 'Bombe'. This was a bit more complex as it involved a bit of prep. I had to stick down some oval-shaped micro-base to the base and then glue a layer of leather to sit on top of it. With a plastic bone I then had to mould the leather around the shape and stitch as close to it as possible. This required a different sewing foot which allowed me to rest the needle right up against the raised shape. It was very difficult to get used to the handling of this technique as it was very easy to steer away from it, which ultimately ruined the effect. It was also something you couldn't easily hide.
Towards the end of the stitch training, I made a little swatch book to help me remember what certain settings look like when setting up the sewing machine. This would help me adapt from job-to-job and help me ensure that everything is set up correctly according to the spec.
In these images I demonstrated different stitch lengths, tensions, edge distances, needle effects, example pieces and finishings.
Before learning the stitching role we would be doing once realised into the production line, we were able to make a small pouch for our tools. This allowed us to use all the techniques we had learnt in the training and was the first time I got to see it all come together. I also learnt how to stitch in a zip the 'Mulberry way'.
This was the final pouch I made which I was really proud of!
This is a section of the Lily bag. This is one of the most common bags we created in the factory, there was always at least one production line making these bags the whole time I was working there. I learnt how to prep and stitch the lining. This was a very lengthy process, but usually it would be broken down into smaller roles between a few people. The prep involved a lot of gluing and sticking. While I was training, it did shock me with how much double sided tape and glue we had to use, I was so used to working with pins. I learnt very quickly that we obviously couldn’t use pins as it would make permanent holes in the leather and linings. I also think they would struggle to go through because the leather can be so thick.
Before I was released into my production line, I had to learn the role I was put on. At the time, we were working on the Alexa bag. This bag was designed by Alexa Chung herself, launched in 2010.
Since then it has become an in house classic design which has been tweaked over time. This has to be one of the most intricate bags we made at the factory. This role alone required a lot of skill, strength, and good hand coordination.
This was the specification sheet I had to work with:
There were three strands of leather covered rope which I had to stitch at the top. I proceeded to plait them as tightly as I could, stuck down with double sided tape, then stitched closed. I had to make sure there were seven plaits on each side and adjusted so they looked even. I then had to stitch it into the slots on the flap, making sure that the handle stitching was facing the back. It was also very important that I stitched the handle in at the right place so that it was in there properly and not likely to fall out.
This is one of my training pieces:
Ink Training
The ink machine has to be one of the most difficult things to describe. This is a machine that constantly pumps out ink like a fountain. This ink comes in lots of different colours but the most common colours we used were black, dark brown and tan. It was very important that we cleaned the machines out thoroughly at the end of the day because we also used lighter colours like white and baby pink. The ink rests in the boat, gets sucked up through the pipe and comes out of the nozzle which feeds it onto the spinning wheel you see at the front. The wheel is the part you run the edge of the leather against.
This is a technique that is used widely on leather products like bags, purses, wallets and belts. Not only does it make the products look more professionally made, it also hides all the interlinings, improves the quality, the ware and tare and also reduces the risk of water damage.
This is the buffing machine, it has two different functions. The wheel that looks like a sander is the Emery Wheel. This gets rid of any fluffiness that comes from the suede, and it also gets rid of any sharp edges. There is a lot of health and safety requirements to bare in mind when using this machine because it can be very dangerous. These were all things that we learnt during the training. The other wheel on this machine was a Leather Wheel. After the first coating of ink has dried, we used the leather wheel to smoothen it out. Depending on what the spec said, I would ink one or two more layers afterwards and it would leave a beautifully smooth finish.
This could be quite a messy job, especially if you created overspill. Mulberry were very hot on avoiding overspill. However, it is hard to avoid on certain types of leathers, particularly the heavy grain. Typically, I would use my finger to wipe it off while it was still wet, there were also wet wipes provided.
These are a few bits I inked during my training. These small straps are used for different bags we made in the factory and were nice pieces to start training with.
This is an example of an inking spec. It was pretty straight forward to follow, as it showed the product information and how to ink them. From product-to product, there were different methods we had to follow.
For example on some panels we had to 'mop ink', as well as ink along the edges. When certain panels were stitched in, the under part of the edge could be a tiny bit exposed. The mop ink allows the edge and the underpart to all be one colour.
To do this, we just used a felt triangle to paint the ink along the under edge:
I was also able to ink other little cut-outs and made them into little key-rings.
They were a little bit more complex to make, as they were smaller actually required me to use the bradawl. This is a tool that can be use for both stitching and inking. For this job it helped me apply the ink into the places the ink machine couldn't. I also used the sand paper in the photo to buff/ smoothen out the first coat of ink as it was too small to use on the buffing machine.
Towards the end of my ink training, I worked with larger panels. These are some gussets I managed to ink. Within the production, each inker has a task to ink different panels of the bag so that they are ready to be stitched further down the line. This usually worked on rotation so that there was a constant flow of work while you wait for the inked bits to dry. This was something I found difficult because it was hard to keep track on what I had or hadn't completed, unlike stitching where you can complete a box and move on to the next.
Stitching and inking were the main two job roles with in the production lines and in the factory.I would also say they were the most important ones. Each stage of the bag making process was closely monitored and if there were any mishaps they would be sent back to be corrected/replaced. It was important that we got eveything right, as Mulberry have a reputation for producing products that are high quality and long lasting.
